If you’re planning a trip to France and your itinerary says Paris, Nice, maybe the Riviera, let me suggest a much-needed stop on your adventures. You need Bordeaux.
I know what you’re thinking. Wine country. Old money. Stuffy. Wrong on all counts. Bordeaux is younger, trendier, and more alive than almost any city we’ve visited in France. The energy reminded me of Austin ten years ago, before everyone caught on. There’s a creative pulse here that caught us completely off guard.
We stayed near the Promenade Sainte-Catherine, right in the heart of the Saint-Pierre quarter, and it was the perfect home base. Narrow cobblestone streets open up to massive squares. Medieval architecture sits next to modern wine bars with natural wine lists that would make a Silver Lake sommelier jealous. The whole neighborhood feels curated without trying too hard, which is the most French thing I can say about it.
Here are five things you should definitely check out while in Bordeaux.
1. Walk the Waterfront at Jardin des Lumières
This was our daily ritual. Lincoln loved it and honestly, so did we. The Jardin des Lumières runs along the Garonne riverbank on either side of the famous water mirror at Place de la Bourse. In the morning, it’s quiet, mostly locals jogging or walking their dogs. The gardens curve along the river in a crescent shape, and when the light hits the water just right, it’s one of the most beautiful urban walks I’ve ever taken. Do this first thing, before the tourists show up.
2. Coffee at Cafeincup
If you need a proper morning coffee (and you do, because French hotel coffee is a war crime), Cafeincup is the move. It’s a specialty coffee shop with actual good espresso, homemade pastries, and a cozy vibe that makes you want to sit for an hour. We went every morning. The brownies are dangerously good.
3. Dinner at Berthus
This was the best meal we had in Bordeaux, and it wasn’t even close. Berthus is a bistronomic spot on Rue des Bahutiers with a green facade and an intimate upstairs dining room. The menu is simple: three starters, three mains, three desserts, all homemade with local ingredients. The whole thing runs about 28 euros per person, which in any American city would buy you a mediocre appetizer. The presentations are beautiful, the flavors are sharp and original, and the staff genuinely cares about your experience. Book ahead.
4. The Miroir d’Eau at Place de la Bourse
You’ve probably seen photos of this even if you don’t know it. The world’s largest reflecting pool sits across from the stunning 18th-century Place de la Bourse, and every 23 minutes it drains and refills, sending up a fog that turns the whole square into something out of a dream. Go at sunset. Bring your camera. It’s the most photogenic spot in a city full of them.
5. Just Get Lost in Saint-Pierre
Seriously. Put the phone away, pick a direction, and walk. The Saint-Pierre quarter is a maze of medieval streets named after the craftspeople who worked there centuries ago. Every turn reveals another bakery, another perfect little square with cafe tables spilling onto the cobblestones. This is the Bordeaux that doesn’t make the guidebooks, and it’s the Bordeaux you’ll remember.
Bordeaux isn’t trying to be Paris. It’s not trying to be anything. It’s just quietly, confidently excellent. Put it on your list.
